Low Water- Lookout to the Sycamore Tree

Water Conditions:  Water off.

Layout:  From Lookout downstream, our lake takes on the characteristic of a river somewhat.  On the bluffside is the channel with deep holes and not-so-deep holes with gravel.... but mostly bedrock and chunk rock bottom.  We find big boulders in strategic places on the bank's edge and on the bottom.  There are a few downed trees on the bank and in the channel but they don't stick around long....  Not much can hold on when the lake is high and fast.  In the deepest holes, which are up at Lookout, you'll find close to 12 feet of water.  But for the most part, depths run between 6 and 8 feet throughout the stretch between Lookout and Fall Creek.

The channel gives way to a flat on the west side-- all gravel and mostly clean gravel.  The current keeps it rolling along and fairly clean.  There is a definate break from channel to flat and I've always found more trout holding on this break.  The flats are deceiving......  there are holes even on the shallow side of this stretch that are as deep as 4 feet right up against the west bank (there's a great hole in front of the 100k tennis court).  At the sycamore tree, the flat becomes very shallow and the channel is the only place a boat can navigate.  Here, the channel is the most narrow and at the tree, the channel isn't that deep.  But boy does the down trees hold trout- esp. browns.

What to look for:  As I mentioned, the break from channel to flat will hold trout- mainly rainbows.  I target this area with a jig only or throwning a jig-n-float.  The same technique works closer to the bluff bank, even shortening the length between the float and jig and working real close and shallow to the bank. 

Look for midging trout right up against the bluff bank... in so shallow water that the trout's backs are out of the water at times.  Rainbows and browns will midge on the flats also.  I've found the shallower the water, the more likely it will take a dry or soft hackle. 

Browns hang around structure.  As I floated the Pere Marquette River in Michigan this past fall with friend Jim Johnson, he told me that when Michigan DNR shock fish on their river, he is amazed how many browns come out of every stick or root wad there is.  In the daytime, most just don't come out when you can see them.  We don't have alot of down trees along our bank in this area but we do have big boulders to make up for it.

Don't miss fishing behind the islands.  Lookout and the slew up and across from Lookout- these pockets don't look like much but do they hold trout!! 

Use beaded nymphs under a strike indicator if they are holding under the surface and appear to be feeding on bugs. Set the indicator alittle deeper than they appear- squirrel tail, hares ear, pheasant tail, sow bugs, brassies, thread jigs, scuds- from #10 to #18.  A strike may be hard, taking the float all the way under, or it may be suttle, just barely moving the float.  Set the hook hard and fast.  Helpful Hint:  Keep an eye on the slack in the line.  Mend the line to get the longest and best dead drift. When setting the hook you need all the slack out or you won't get a good hook set.  Strip weighted woolies and streamers through this area also.  Use 3x to 5x tippet and a long leader.  Good colors are gray, olive, brown and black in sizes #4's to #10.  Cast wherever fish are.  Work the banks and esp around trees and big boulders. Double bunnies and leeches also are good for bigger trout in the winter. Against the bluff bank is good for browns.  They tend to cruise this bank looking for small forage fish and bugs dropping out fo the trees.  Look for a very aggressive strike.

Dries--   Cast terrestrials along the bluff bank in the summer and fall months.  Later in the fall, we have huge midge hatches- unbelievable hatches- and our trout gourge themselves on the larva, the emergers and dries.  The very best place to nab feeding trout are right up against the banks.... as I said before, when their backs are out of the water.  Hoppers, humpies, ants, elk hair caddis, renegades, cicadas and adams- anything big and bulky.  Most of the trout you will catch will be nice ones- both rainbows and browns.

           Spin Fishing......  Use 2- or 4-pound, green line.  Throw jigs either with or without a strike indicator.  With a float, use 1/80th or 1/100th oz. jigs in ginger, olive, brown, black, black/yellow, white, pink or gray.  Why all the colors.... trout change their eating habits sometimes on an hourly basis.  Use this in the edge of the current line- throw upsteam and let it float down in front of you, watching the float carefully.  When throwing a jig straight, use a 1/16 oz. and the same colors- white, sulpin and black are the best colors. Work the jig fast or slow, depending on the mood of the trout at any given time-- letting the jig drop as long as possible on the retreive.  Trout tend to strike the jig as it falls and you may or may not feel the strike.  If you're using a light colored jig, watch the jig and when it dissappears- set the hook.  That's what makes jig fishing a challenge-- a finess style that takes a lot of touch.  Helpful Hint:  If the fish are striking short and you're missing a lot of hits, pinch off the marabou tail making it shorter.  Spoons like Cleos, Buoyants and Super Dupers worked slowly or with a jerky action can be good.  Crank baits such as rapalas, rogues and other similar shaped lures are excellent baits for bigger trout- rainbows and browns.  Work them hard area structure and the banks.  Work them hard and fast, jerking them through the water, stopping them 2 or 3 times after getting them down.  More times then not, they will get hit on the stop.  At night, work them slow on the surface and wait for the blow up- just like bass fishing.

Best Conditions:  Low light and a slight to medium wind.

Worse Conditions:  Bright sun and no wind.
 
 

Copyright:  2003  Lilleys' Landing Resort, BIMS, Branson, Missouri 
Phil Lilley, Jim Turner